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Old Guy With A Broken Heart

May 04, 2006

Here's a story we received from a friend this last week. With his permission, we are sharing it here.

I am 51 years old, and until last summer it had been 25 years or so that I hadn't had the opportunity to surf. Life happened. I live in Arizona now, but grew up on the Jersey shore, you can figure out the rest. I still miss my Maui Duke Kahannamuko 9'4" longboard. I went to a California Company 7'1". Much faster, plus I only weighed 123 lbs. Throughout my life's work, I've found the time and desire to return to the ocean. It was always a healer for me when things didn't make much sense.

My experience last year, like the old cliche, was like riding a bike. First wave, first ride...I was re-hooked. I spoke often of surfing during the years and promised my daughter Alex that one day I would take her surfing. Finally this past weekend we went to San Diego where my middle son lives. It took two days of flat conditions to get a somewhat decent ride, but a ride nonetheless. 

You see we lost Alex in an auto accident on 3/28/06. She was 21. But I kept my promise, and a small plastic Ziploc baggie of her ashes tucked inside the wetsuit, next to my heart. When we rode together, she was with me. As a final action, my wife, my son and I took out the pouch, opened it, poured the ashes into our three palms, and let her drift away into eternity. I only regret not seeing the smile on her face. But somehow I know it's there. I support your mission statement 100 percent. Thank you for listening. Scotty.

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